Author: ron b
Date: 2001-08-12 23:04
If you're considering buying it to play, 7, you should be on the alert to two basic things...
First:
you'll need to determine whether it's a low pitch or a high pitch instrument. Low pitch, the present day international A-440, is what you want. Many old horns are marked, usually near the makers mark, LP for low pitch or HP for high pitch. A high pitch instrument will play about a quarter tone sharp (A-458 or so) and will have profoundly bad intonation if you try to lower it enough by pulling joints out - totally unsuitable for ensemble playing with modern instruments. Don't go by measurement (length) because bore differences make that a very unreliable method. If it's not marked, and you're not blessed with perfect pitch, you'll need a tuner of some kind to test it. If all the pads are shot and you can fit a playable mouthpiece to it, you can test an open G.
Second:
if you're going to become a proficient player you'll want to look for a patent C# mechanism. You can check this out by noting whether it has one or two pad cups just below the right pinky (C/F) key. One pad cup for the C/F key is a modern simple system - basic student model - not really suitable :[ Two pad cups, the lower one operated independently by the left pinky (long B/E) key, indicates C# mechanism :] which will greatly facilitate playing because of the alternate chromatic fingerings you'll have available with it.
If the horn is not quite like this description and is in fact an early simple system, with (almost) no alternate fingering possibilities, you may want to buy it just for the historical display value. Some simple systems, however, are LPs and are fun to play. I have one and get a kick out of it. But, I wouldn't want to play a lengthy recital or a four hour gig with it :
- ron b -
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