 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: Ashley91489
Date: 2006-10-05 21:28
First of all, I'm having some difficulty getting my low notes to play, generally a C or below, sometimes a D as well. I can't really play them short or stacato at all. The problem is that those notes just come out as squeaks, not a full rich low sound like it should be.
Secondly, high notes. How can get high notes (B/C and above) to come out full sounding? I can play them but they usually come out very weak and not that loud at all, very faint sounding. Also, advice on play the very high notes? (Above C) The piece I'm working on now, Abram's Pursuit goes *very* high and it just doesn't sound good being so high.
I have a professional oboe and it works great so I'm guessing the reed may be an issue. What type of reed would you suggest playing on the help with both the high and low registers?
BTW, hand making my own/learning from someone or buying them from a local reedmaker is not an option. I'll most likely have to order them online.
Thanks for any help and suggestions!
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Author: sylvangale
Date: 2006-10-05 22:10
I just posted on reeds in the Georgia thread on 8notes [added below].
If you search here for handmade you'll find many recommendations.
The biggest cause of fault in the low register are reeds past their prime. If you purchase reputable reeds and your low range is good when new, you need to let dying reeds die.
If you have trouble with even good reeds then the instrument is probably out of adjustment.
Search for embouchure and check out past threads on shape, breathing, and air focus for a lot of helpful advise that will aide your upper range.
Regards,
Stephen via MDA
♫ Stephen K.
Post Edited (2006-10-06 20:37)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-10-05 23:36
Ashley, soak your reeds well, then do a suction test to see if they seal.
Cover the end of the staple with your index finger tip (lick your index finger so it seals well) while gripping the cork with your thumb and middle finger and suck the air from the reed. You should be able to hold a vacuum from between 5 and 10 seconds before the blades 'pop' open.
If you can't get a vacuum, you have a leak - either the binding is leaking (due to it not being sealed) or there's a leak at the base of the reed (above the binding) where the two blades meet'.
To cure the binding leak, coat all the threaded area with clear nail varnish to seal it all and let it dry. Then repeat the suction test.
If it still leaks, then wrap a strip of cling film (or plumbers' PTFE tape) around the lower part of the reed between the bottom of the scrape and covering the entire binding as well to seal it all - you can cover the cling film with nail varnish to stop it unravelling. If your reeds are wired, cover the wire as well. This should stop all leaks and give you more response across the entire range.
Don't use sellotape to do this.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: oboeblank
Date: 2006-10-05 23:58
First check if your oboe is out of adjustment. The weather is changing and unless you live in an area of the world that is relatively unaffected or you play an oboe with leather pads the weather has an effect on the oboe. You may think that it is in good shape, but the smallest changes can have a profound effect on the oboe.
If your problematic notes are the notes requiring the side octave, you could have something in the vent. When was the vent cleaned last? If you are using a cotton swab you may be deposting lint into the vent. I remember a student looked helplessly on as I pulled out the vent, and low and behold, more lint than a pants pocket. If only the B and C are the problems, your B vent adjustment might be out. It may not be a bad idea to bring your baby in for a check-up, just to be on the safe side.
I don't think that a dying or dead reed is the cause of your small upper register, however, find a good online source of handmade reeds and become a loyal customer. I would recommend MKL reeds- oboe reeds handmade by Eastman graduates. There are many good sources out there for handmade reeds and there was/is a website devoted to customer ratings for various reed making companies.
With regard to your upper register fingerings, there is a very good fingering chart by Gillet which is available at oboe shops and even an oboe fingering website. It is important to use proper fingerings for notes from C# on. Usually the first fingering is the most in-tune and stable and should be the primary fingering used for that note.
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Author: Dutchy
Date: 2006-10-06 01:10
Quote:
Don't use sellotape to do this.
Notes for Ashley, just in case:
Sellotape = scotch tape.
i.e. don't try to tape your reed together. :D
Cling film = saran wrap, HandiWrap, i.e. clear plastic wrap.
Nail varnish = nail polish.
And the "plumbers PTFE tape" is sold over here as "teflon tape", widely available in better DIY and hardware stores like True Value, Menards, Lowe's, Handy Dan's, etc. It's really cool super-thin white stuff, non-sticky, that you wrap around the threads of a pipe to seal it. I didn't know you could use it to seal reeds, but cool idea.
Post Edited (2006-10-06 01:11)
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Author: mosh
Date: 2006-10-06 01:43
Hi,
Just a note on the "plumbers PTFE tape" - I think it is great !!
I use this exclusively for about 3 years now and it is really easy. It is cheap ( about $0.75 to $1 USD), comes in rolls ( so you don't have to cut up your Mum's "Good" roll of plastic wrap - I always got in trouble for doing this !!) and it really works !!
It is originally designed to wrap around the thread of plumbing fittings when you screw them into another fitting, creating a water tight seal.
Funny enough on an oboe reed the thread of the binding looks very similar to that of a plumbing fitting, and once you put it on it will not come loose like plastic or old gold beaters, until you want it to come off.
After about 3-4 days of playing it does become a bit discoloured ( the tape is usually white), and if this happens just remove - find the end of the tape on the reed and push it with your thumb nail, it comes off fairly easily - then replace.
I have seen many German players using it so far ( at the IDRS conferences) and a few of the French players, but I believe it is really not that wide spread so far ??? - Anyone out there using it ??
There are a few people out there who think that Teflon tape was bad for you ? Well it is Teflon ( like the surface of your Frying pan at home) and it is used in Water fittings - and you drink the water don't you ?? so I think the health issue is a non issue.
My advice is to give it a go .. it's cheap enough and will not hurt.
Mosh
www.smreeds.com
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Author: vboboe
Date: 2006-10-06 02:41
... far too many possibilities here, need to check off and eliminate
reed moist enough? Amazing but true, dry reeds don't sing very well
moist enough reed doesn't leak? (Yes, thumbs up to Teflon tape)
moist enough reed is stiff and resistant? Too hard for you, get others easier to play.
oboe & reed warmed up enough?
steady reed tone when played out of oboe includes low, medium and high partials? Some reeds don't do everything, maybe low or high is missing?
cork fits snugly in reed well and tenon joints?
F# extension thingy closes G# / A-flat key cap firmly enough?
All screws appear to be in their proper place?
All springs hooked up?
cigarette paper test doesn't find any loose fitting pads or keys anywhere?
no cracks?
does semi-auto octave close rapidly, or is it sticky and there's a slight delay in closing? Squeak city! May need oiling -- or screw assembly may need cleaning (lint or gunk)
fingers covering holes properly? Not leaning slightly on side trills, octave keys? Half hole quarter open? Slightly moving off upper holes as shift from low E to D and C?
playing another oboe with *** same reed *** gets low D & C fine, and sounds better, fuller, richer in upper octave -- or about the same? If about same & first oboe doesn't leak -- inadequate air support or unfocused air stream. If other sounds better, maybe the pro oboe is just too resistant for you, some are harder to blow than others
embouchure test -- play reed by blowing on back of hand as if playing oboe -- strong focused air? Not much? Embouchure or oral cavity not in proper shape, or air support inadequate, player must figure out how to adjust and maintain, seek pro teaching help in person
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Author: HautboisJJ
Date: 2006-10-06 13:42
More thumbs up to Teflon, clear plastic wrap tends to peal off really easily after a few soaks in water.
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Author: sylvangale
Date: 2006-10-06 20:34
Now that I'm on a computer this was what I had posted on 8notes in regards to reliable (handmade) reeds, working with good reeds from the get go and tossing them when they are of age will solve a great deal of your problems and help you develop better playing skills:
Quote:
Here's a listing of various makers:
http://www.oboeinsight.com/stories/storyReader$449
You don't have to limit it to your state. I order reeds from all over the US, none from my home state yet.
If money is at all a concern, as reeds can get quite pricey, a couple of options would be to go with a low cost hand made reed such as those from Nielsen's Woodwinds or try the wired reeds from goodtoneguild.com which will let you push up the wires to increase the life of your reed (ie. prevents them from closing up).
The cheapest route is making reeds yourself from scratch, blanks, or from inexpensive student reeds, but that's for the future, hopefully with someone experienced in making reeds.
You should however branch out to other makers to experience how varied handmade reeds can be. You may find a maker that makes something that is special for you.
As you buy $8 reeds, cycle in some $15 and $20 reeds. The prices will average out.
A (wishful) year supply: 16 $8, 4 $15, 4 $20, = $11.20 a reed. < Beats store bought junk.
<Added>
Or buy in bulk, if you can take 10-20 reeds at a time from your favorite maker it should lower the cost somewhat.
<Added>
Just bumped into another inexpensive reed maker while looking into Baroque oboes:
http://oboe.org/Elite.htm
Regards,
Stephen
♫ Stephen K.
Post Edited (2006-10-06 20:37)
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Author: d-oboe
Date: 2006-10-07 12:55
I agree - unless you play a PVC oboe or a Greenline ( I do, hehe) then you will have to adjust your wooden oboe on a regular basis. That's not to say I don't adjust my oboe, I just find I don't need to do it quite that often. It's hard to describe every adjustment screw - there are SO many, but in general the rule for adjusting is to have *just* enough tension to make the particular pad not leak. Too little, it won't close at all, too much, and it will throw another key out of balance, or require too much finger pressure to close.
D
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Author: cjwright
Date: 2006-10-07 13:53
I know the dealer who you quoted sylvan, and her reeds aren't very good. responsive yes, but that's about it. They lack stability, tone, etc. She was my first oboe teacher many many moons ago...
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Author: Dutchy
Date: 2006-10-07 20:29
I've never tried her reeds, but I'd like to point out that for beginners (like me), "responsive" is fine, we don't need nuances like "tone" or "stability" yet. :D If it just plays halfway decent, we're happy.
I've bought "student" reeds from a number of different people by this time, and I'm finding to my dismay that some of them tend to be stiff and stuffy, like the makers couldn't be bothered--for an $8 reed--to take the time to scrape down and thin the tip of the reed enough to make it responsive.
So "responsive" in an $8 reed would be good.
Also, everybody's embouchure is different; I had great problems with reeds from a Famous Maker, which I eventually had to send back for a refund.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-10-07 21:26
I know they're not American scrape, but I do like these reeds:
http://www.tordareeds.co.uk/
Maybe give them a try - specify exactly the strength you want (and your ability) and they should work instantly after a brief soaking in hot water.
I thought my favourite one packed up back in August, but I kept it and tried it last week during a lesson and it played remarkably well considering I've been using it since about May - and I've done a rehearsal and two concerts with it since last week as well.
And there's a split running down one blade as well, but it's still hanging on in there!
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: sylvangale
Date: 2006-10-08 02:36
CJ, Did you mean the last reed maker I stumbled across, Kestrel? I kinda liked Meg Cassell's.
I feel your pain Dutchy. Once I started sampling reeds outside the $8 price range I realised how much better reeds were available and I went out there. However I think those $8 reeds are very much worthwhile over stuff on the shelf. One can even just thin the tip a bit and get a very nice reed.
I used to use and love European scrape reeds. You may find switching from American to Euro scrape reeds make the Euro reeds sound like crap, when really they don't sound bad at all. It takes a few days of getting used to the sound and then you can make it your own and judge the reeds. I prefer Euro players, but the easy big booming presence you can get on an American scrape is kinda nice sometimes.
Regards,
Stephen
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